In New York, particularly in Manhattan, every cuisine is “elevated.” But what does that actually mean? Typically, it involves chefs experimenting with everyday or street foods to see how they can transform them with higher budgets. With rents so high, elevating cuisine has almost become a survival strategy—not necessarily a movement driven by creativity.
Another motivator is cultural branding. In the West, many cultures are still perceived through outdated stereotypes that portray them as poor. Younger generations from these cultures are eager to modernize these images, essentially rebranding their national identities. Yet, this effort to impress the Western gaze almost invariably revolves around money. It’s a competition to see who can charge more for their products, as financial value is often the only measure that commands Western respect.
To me, it’s akin to the difference between a piano composition and an orchestral one. I’ve heard orchestral versions of Erik Satie’s music, but they sounded frivolous. Form and content share a delicate balance; change one, and the chemistry between them can vanish. Haikus don’t become “elevated” by adding more words either—their beauty lies in restraint.
In the West, we’re often made to feel apologetic for not being rich. Our offerings need the approval of the rich to gain attention; otherwise, we risk being ignored. It’s a natural consequence of capitalism. Having grown up in it, we’re unaware of its psychological impact. Money has become the currency of respect.
This capitalistic drive has thoroughly permeated the fine arts. As artists achieve success, they predictably make their work larger and more expensive to produce and exhibit, trying to differentiate themselves through scale and cost.
In photography and music, however, production costs have dropped so significantly that throwing money at them no longer achieves distinction. It’s always been this way for writing.
Much like Satie’s piano pieces, artistic substance is often clearer when it isn’t overcomplicated by money. I’d rather see what chefs could create if they didn’t have to impress the rich.
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